A Non-Armenian’s View From Inside Armenia and Artsakh
A Visit to Armenia and Artsakh, May 26 to June 6, 2018
by David Warner, Former Speaker of the Ontario Legislature
The following article is written by former Speaker of the Ontario Legislative Assembly and a staunch supporter of the Armenian cause, The Hon. David Warner, about his thoughts and impressions from a recent trip to Armenia and Artsakh. From May 26th to June 6th, 2018, Mr. Warner travelled to Armenia and Artsakh to participate in the celebrations of the 100th anniversary of the First Republic of Armenia and learn first-hand about the current situation in Artsakh. During the trip, Mr. Warner was joined by his grandson, Sebastian Smith and members of the Armenian National Committee of Canada.
An Awakening
I was approached by Sarkis Assadourian, in 1979, to help sponsor an all-Party Resolution in the House, recognizing the Armenian Genocide. I knew nothing about the Armenian Genocide. I was, however familiar with the Legislative Library. What I read horrified me. I was quite eager to support a Resolution in the House. A Resolution was introduced, debated and passed unanimously. I knew what I was supporting, but did not see it “up close and personal”. That next step occurred when I was at the Armenian Community Centre for the 1980 commemoration of the Genocide and heard the keynote address by Stephen Lewis. It was a pivotal moment for me. That speech ignited a desire in me to know more, and to do more in the cause of recognition. A desire which still burns bright and always will until justice has been achieved.
Never Been to Armenia?
After nearly 40 years of the annual Genocide Commemoration in Toronto, marches in Ottawa, writing poems about the Genocide, making speeches, writing letters to elected officials trying to engage them in the quest for justice, it was time for a visit to Armenia. The timing was perfect, as May 28th, 2018 would be the 100th Anniversary of the First Republic of Armenia. What I didn’t realize was that this, my first visit to Armenia, would be so much more than a celebratory event and sightseeing.
A Remarkable Organizing Team
An impressive, comprehensive itinerary was fashioned expertly by Greg Chitilian of the Armenian Community Centre of Toronto. The concept was to visit historic sites, experience the beauty of the country, appreciate the culture, share in the special celebrations and learn directly the current political situation in Artsakh. In Armenia it was Sevag Belian, Executive Director of Armenian National Committee of Canada, who took this ambitious itinerary and smoothly turned it into reality.
May 27 – Two Battlefields
We join hundreds of others who were honouring the courageous, outnumbered Armenian troops who defeated the Turkish forces in 1918. First, the walk to the historic battlefields of the “Battle of Pash Abaran” (just outside the City of Aparan), then the battlefields of the “Battle of Karakilisa” (just outside the City of Vanadzor). These two places were the sights of two out of the three major battles that took place in May 1918, against the Turkish armies and the one’s that eventually lead to Armenia’s independence.
We pay a special visit to Vanadzor. The occasion is the opening of a newly renovated local office of the Armenian Revolutionary Federation, the renovations being a gift from the Armenian National Committee of Canada. The official opening speech is given by Raffi Donabedian”, National Chair of the Armenian National Committee of Canada. It is a joyous celebration for the large crowd gathered to tour the beautifully renovated offices which will serve politically, culturally and be engaged in local social work. As we drive through the town I can’t help but notice the abandoned factories; rusting, dilapidated. When the Soviet Empire collapsed so too did the industries in this town. Rebuilding the infrastructure will be a huge task.
Yerevan – May 28 – Celebrations!
We are part of a large, jubilant crowd gathered for the major State Ceremony recognizing Armenian independence, at the site of the third and most decisive battle, the “Battle of Sartarabad”. The Prime Minister, Nikol Pashinyan, is in attendaance. The lengthy parade includes military personnel and weaponry, as well as marching bands. There is an infectious festive atmosphere. No one seems to mind the heat or the huge crowd. And, everyone wants at least a glimpse of the new Prime Minister.
We are back to Yerevan in time to have dinner. Directions to Republic Square are not needed, just follow the crowd! And what a crowd it is. Yerevan’s Republic Square was one large, joyous scene. My grandson, Sebastian and I joined the celebrations. Modern day Armenia was turning 100. A full orchestra on stage, opera singers, ballet dancers, modern sounds as well, all enthusiastically welcomed by the crowd of at least 70,000, topped off with a dazzling fireworks display. The essence of the event, for me, was observing a scene unfold prior to the start of the program. A couple of children were seated on the ground, holding a large Armenian flag on a pole. A man who appeared to be in his late 70’s, in full military uniform, motioned to the children, started singing while doing a little “two step”. The children joined him in song. Spontaneously, a crowd formed a circle around the children and the soldier, and joined in the singing. Next, this newly formed chorus burst into an enthusiastic rendition of the Armenian national anthem. Armenia. It is about family, remembering the past, and celebrating the opportunity to grasp a better tomorrow. It was indeed a special moment for a country whose beginnings go back 5,000 years. There is a collective memory which encompasses the Kingdom of Armenia, the Genocide, and Soviet Communist occupation. All set aside to celebrate not only an Armenia Centennial, but the election of a new Prime Minister. There was a sense that an exciting new chapter in Armenian history was about to be written.
Exploring the Capital and the Countryside – May 29 to June 2
Monasteries, Monuments and Mountains
May 29 – Caves and Canyons
We meet a gracious gentleman, Gagik, who will be our driver and guide for the next four days. We will learn that not only is he a highly skilled driver and superbly knowledgeable guide, but he knows some fascinating places to dine. The Armenian Apostolic Church, known as the Mother Church, is located on the outskirts of Yerevan, at Vagharshapat. As we stroll the grounds, we experience an atmosphere of serenity and reverence. We visit the museum, which houses precious religious artifacts and are fortunate enough to hear a choir in the church. Not far away is 7th century Zvartnots Cathedral, now in ruins as a result of an earthquake. An excellent small scale replica reveals the unique architecture of a church which was built at a time when Muslim Arabs were overrunning the area.
Cautiously we step into the pitch black enormous cave, situated on the side of a cliff. The cave is part of an ancient monastery. We gingerly put one foot in front of the other. Our eyes adjust slowly to the dark. There is a sliver of light from a small opening at the top of the cave. We stop, transfixed by the recognizable, beautiful sounds of a Gregorian Chant. In this massive cave there must be a choir! Well, there is but the sound of 40 voices is being made by just 4 people. Later, Sebastian and I climb over the rocks to a small cave, from which we are afforded a magnificent view of a extensive canyon.
The monastery is situated at one end of a canyon. A few kilometres along the canyon, at Garni, there is a 2,000 year old pagan temple. The temple is interesting and the view spectacular. That same spectacular view is afforded as we dine in a restaurant overlooking the canyon.
May 30 – Culture, History and Fun
We explore Yerevan, a city which encompasses the past and the present, with a glimpse of what the future may hold. The imposing Mother Armenia monument watches over the city. As we amble around the base of the monument, looking at the war machines of yesteryear we learn that the Soviet MIG fighter jet was invented by an Armenian, Artem Mikoyan. A similar commanding view of the city is from the monument built by the Soviets to recognize 50 years of their rule. We walk from that monument, down past Charles Aznavour’s house, appreciating that it is easier to walk down the Cascades than up! The Manuscript Museum’s treasured documents are fascinating. We soak up as much of the rich cultural history as possible, so a visit to the Sergei Parajanov Museum is in order and is of particular interest to Sebastian, who is on a path to be a film director. A great start on that path may be the documentary he is filming on this trip.
We have a tasty, satisfying buffet breakfast each morning at the hotel, but look forward to Armenian cuisine at local restaurants for lunch and dinner. Our guide directs us to some superb places to dine. I can’t pass up the opportunity for a tour and a taste testing at the Noy Cognac factory. Smooth as silk! Sheer ambrosia! I quickly purchase a bottle to enjoy back home.
The evenings are an opportunity for Sebastian and I to find out what this city is like after dark. We wander past a couple of Embassies, through Republic Square, enjoying the “dancing waters”, soaking in the ambiance of music mingled with laughter, then along a wide pedestrian street which is lined with high end shops, outdoor cafes and there is more music. Beyond the pedestrian street there is a delightful park which has a small lake and on the edge of the lake a couple of outdoor cafes. Cafe Rich becomes out late night dessert stop. Not only are there yummy treats, but on the first night we are served by a very friendly young man, whose English was very good. The following 3 nights he looked for the two of us. By now I am convinced that friendliness is a national trait.
May 31 – Scenic Beauty
As we crisscross Armenia, coming close to Armenia’s neighbours on occasion, we enjoy the beauty of the rugged mountains, and whenever possible gaze at dazzling Mount Ararat.
Sebastian and I take turns going down the vertical ladder into the chamber where St. Gregory the Illuminator was held prisoner for 14 years. Clambering over the rocks to a high point above this 11th century monastery, we have an unobstructed view of the Armenian border and the neutral land between it and Turkey. It is amazing how quickly the scenery changes. A short drive and we are into a mountainous area. Wide expanses of emerald green fields are blanketed with sun yellow, blood red and royal purple flowers. The winding canyon road takes us to a small monastery, one which compensates for it’s size with a set of steps hugging the side of the building, creating an almost vertical climb of two stories. I accept the caution from my grandson about climbing the face of this church. I stand and watch as he nimbly scrambles up and down. This fascinating day concludes in a most delightful way, dining on barbequed fish, at a restaurant whose “pods” are perched over a swiftly flowing river.
June 1 – Children Are Special
One could easily call it a “monastery village”, as there are 4 monasteries, each built one century apart, from the 10th to the 13th century. The actual name is Haghpat Monasteries. Lots of history here, and spectacular scenery in this mountainous region not far from the border of Georgia. We wind our way out of the mountains, enjoying the view as we go, and head for beautiful Lake Sevan. Sebastian and I climb the hill to visit Monastery Sevanavank. It is here that Sebastian finds the perfect item as a way to remember this incredible trip. We watch the artist put the finishing touch on a small statue which is fashioned out of volcanic rock. We then stand for a while enjoying the picturesque view of Lake Sevan.
Somehow Yerevan seemed different when we returned from our adventurous day. Travelling along the streets I noticed children with balloons, amusement areas with lots of families. Our driver filled us in. “June 1 is Childrens’ Day, a holiday where families have fun.”
After dinner, Sebastian and I head for a park we had passed in the car. Face painting, games, candy floss, ice cream, boating on the small lake, lots of balloons. Everyone having a good time. This is definitely a holiday we should have in Canada so we can pay special attention to our children.
June 2 – A Time of Reflection
The Genocide Memorial in Yerevan, strategically located at a high point in the city, is singularly striking. The symbolism of the tall, arrow shaped tower is powerful. The eternal flame, surrounded by the 12 inward leaning walls, is impressive. There is an atmosphere of reverence and tranquillity. It was an honour for Sebastian and I to lay flowers at the eternal flame. It was a moment of reflection. We then tour the Memorial Museum, appreciating the superbly documented details of the Armenian Genocide.
Sevag directed our group to a cozy restaurant to enjoy western Armenian cuisine. Delicious!
In the afternoon I had the privilege of meeting Giro Manoyan, Director of the International Secretariat of the Armenian Revolutionary Federation Bureau in Yerevan. I appreciate having a detailed discussion about the Armenian diaspora and as well, some information about the place where I will be for the next two days.
Artsakh – June 3 – Magnificent Mountains
The twisting switchback roads, the view of a sheer drop hundreds of metres, occasional verdant green meadows nestled below snow capped peaks, reminds me of Switzerland. The day long drive to the Independent Republic of Artsakh gives me lots of time to think about the situation in Artsakh. I know the history is complicated. Centuries of shifting power bases helped do that, but the shifting borders as arranged by the Soviets has created an untenable situation. This small, mountainous region with a population of 170,000 has been subjected to brutal attacks by Azerbaijan, a country with 10,000,000 people. A cease fire has been in effect since 1994, but there are regular border skirmishes. International support for Artsakh should be an effective option as a deterrent to keep Azerbaijan from further aggression. Alas, the United Nations does not officially recognize Artsakh, so even Canada does not officially assist.
At the end of a long day what a delight to have even a brief tour of Stepanakert, the capital of Artsakh. This is a very attractive city. Sevag knows a great place for dinner. Later, we enjoy a warm summer evening, sitting outside with cold drinks and chatting.
June 4 – Stepanakert
The first of a series of meetings was with Masis Mayilian, the Minister of Foreign Affairs. The Minister and I have an in-depth discussion about the situation with Azerbaijan. I put forward the notion that the international community is looking at this situation the wrong way around. It seems that the U.N. and others are focused on the status of Artsakh rather than the bigger issue of Azerbaijan aggression. The international community should be finding ways to create a peace treaty, stop the border fighting. Let the people of Artsakh decide their status.
Meeting with the Deputy Speaker of the Parliament, Vahram Palayan was instructive and as with everyone else I have met so far, very cordial. Being the Chair of the Former Parliamentarians Association of Ontario, I was delighted to meet my Artsakh counterpart, Hamlet Krikorian, Chair of Union of Former Parliamentarians of Artsakh. “Hands across the ocean and mountains.!”
Meeting with executive members of the Armenian Revolutionary Federation of Artsakh, I found to be emotional. Vahagn Dadayan, Vice-Chair of the Central Committee, who chaired the meeting, and the other men sitting around the table had all served at the front, prepared to sacrifice their life for the independence of Artsakh. I quipped that their spirit and commitment inspires me to seek political office again. “However, I am too old to run again.” The response was a unified “If you run again, we will support you!”
June 5 – Shushi
The drive from Stepanakert to Shushi is one of being surrounded by the rugged beauty of the mountains. A truly breathtaking drive. Saro Saryan, Manager of the Geological Museum in Shushi was featured in an Anthony Bourdain television program about Armenia. He is also a friend of Sevag. Saro provides a personal tour of the museum, carefully explaining the history of the centuries old rocks and minerals. Then, time for tea and a chat.
We also stop for a visit at St. Ghazanchetsots church. A unique feature of the history of this beautiful church is that during the Nagorno-Karabakh War Azerbaijan used the cathedral as an armoury, where hundreds of missiles were stored.
Back along the twisting, turning roads, down out of the beautiful mountains and head back to Yerevan. Some guitar music from the back seat, recollections of our two days in Artsakh and the long drive back is quite pleasant.
Sebastian and I have dinner, and pack up for our early morning departure to Canada
Impressions
Our 12 days in this remarkably beautiful country was amazing. It was an immersion in history; reaching back to antiquity, grasping the complexities and connecting that history with today’s realities. It was appreciating the importance of the Armenian Apostolic Church in not only shaping the culture, but in providing unshakable support and strength over the centuries. Most of all, it was the people. It wasn’t just the warm welcome, but an observation that in Armenia families are central to everyday life. There is no shortage of happy, smiling children or happy, smiling parents!
I came away with a deeper understanding of the importance of the diaspora. While it is difficult to explain how it happens, there is a magnetic pull towards Armenia. I spoke with several visitors who acknowledged that they were not born in Armenia, had never been to Armenia and in a couple of cases didn’t speak Armenian. However, they felt drawn to visit for the 100th anniversary celebrations.
The impact of the Genocide can not be understated. Yet, the desire to connect with Armenia is more than remembering the Genocide. It is the centuries of a rich cultural history, the struggles of wars, earthquakes, occupation and simply trying to survive on the land which has created an irresistible, invisible bond to Mother Armenia. The strength of the mountains is within the people. If Turkey was to understand all of this, it would understand why “Armenians Will Never Die!”